Monday is Ochi Day, a big national public holiday in Greece which conveniently makes a three day long weekend this year, just when everyone is wrapping up for the season. The ferry strike ended just in time for holiday plans to continue more or else without disruption. The weather is still unnervingly perfect, with calm seas and mild temperatures. The water taxis and excursion boats are preparing for their winter haulouts, the beach operators are dismantling umbrellas and sunbeds and everyone is looking forward to the Panormitis festival on 8 November.
The ferry timetables are changing to their winter schedules so there are fewer connections between Symi and the outside world. The Sebeco no longer overnights in Symi so there’s no early morning boat to Rhodes. Their timetable finishes on 31 October. Dodecanese Seaways have also reduced the Panagia Skiadeni’s service.
Some photos I took in Nimborio early on Friday morning.
Today is 30 September but on Symi it feels a lot like 31 October. The speed with which seasonal activities are shutting down on the island this year is startling, but understandable in the Year of the Virus. With so few tourists around and a cloud of uncertainty it does not make sense for small businesses to struggle on into October, looking for the money to pay staff, insurance and buy perishable stock that will not be sold or eaten.
A solitary fisherman in Pedi bay.
Early morning in Pedi. I took this while waiting to take the 8.30 bus into Yialos.
As we slip into October the ferry schedules are tailing off into winter mode. Dodecanese Seaways has significantly cut back on the service to Symi and, as was the case earlier in the season, some days will be filled in on an ad hoc basis with little advance warning. Blue Star ferries still comes through three times a week, on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Monday and Wednesday are incredibly early, entailing being down on the dock before 5 in the morning and arriving in Rhodes shortly after 6, long before anything is open. Friday is considerably more civilised, with the boat leaving Symi just after 8, making this the most popular day for trips to Rhodes for the locals. The SAOS Stavros plods on regardless with only slight changes to times for October.
I never know what I am going to see what I look out of the window. This rather sweet little boat hasn’t seen the sea for a very long time and is, no doubt, unlikely to see it again if it is up the mountain, in the landfill.
There is a lot of speculation and chatter regarding what is likely to happen – or not happen – about the Panormitis Festival this year. Will the usual week-long fair be allowed to take place? Will pilgrims be allowed to come to the monastery from all over the islands and sleep in dormitories and on the verandahs? Is it even worth wondering about it when we still have October to get through and a week is a long time in 2020? Watch this space – if I hear anything, I will let you know!
Adriana Shum 